GRAND SEIKO SBGW293 TSUJI and SBGW291 KUUKI
The new
replica Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models live up to the Japanese brand's reputation for crafting beautifully designed, high-precision and ultra-legible watches. The air- and earth-themed dials reference nature, the models are rich in virtue, and at a modest asking price of £4,460 each, they all make compelling reasons to acquire them.
Sometimes it's hard to believe that Grand Seiko was founded in 1960. The GS is relatively new to the world of high-end watchmaking compared to its German and Swiss counterparts. Just a few years ago, in my native UK, the brand was mostly the preserve of well-informed watch enthusiasts. Now, the secret has been revealed and plenty of salt lovers have discovered the joys of owning a GS.
But what makes GRAND SEIKO different? first of all, naturally
Similar to fine wines influenced by terroir, Grand Seiko watches are deeply influenced by nature. "Snowflakes", "Black Streams", "Sakura" (cherry blossoms) and birch trees have proven to be rich sources of inspiration for the company when designing its dials.
Grand Seiko also studies the interplay between light and shadow, and the myriad shadows in between. Recently, the luxury brand released two hand-wound models that reference air (Kuuki) and earth (Tsuji). The Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji has a dark brown dial, while the SBGW291 Kuuki has a light silver tone.
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Celebrating the brand's legacy
In 1967, Grand Seiko released the iconic 44GS, a watch that defined Grand Seiko style, a visually recognizable 'grammar' that continues to endure. The design language includes mirror-polished and distortion-free flats, a recessed crown, faceted hands and indexes, and finally an extremely elegant curved case.
Over the years, Grand Seiko has been celebrating the anniversary of the 1967 model with a series of 44GS-inspired pieces in a variety of sizes and metals. The Japanese brand celebrates the 55th anniversary of the 44GS with the SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki. In addition, Grand Seiko respects the modest size of the original (37.9 mm), presenting the two new models in a period-inspired size of 36.5 mm.
ZARATSU polishing
Both the SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models feature a stainless steel case with a mirror polished finish that glistens. A technique known as zaratsu polishing was first used on the GS model GS Self-Dater in 1964, and the resulting polish set the GS apart from many of its contemporaries.
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The first Grand Seiko cases were polished using a machine built by the Swiss company Sallaz Brothers. In Japan, the Swiss company's name was mispronounced as "zaratsu," a word that later became part of the GS parlance. These types of machines have a vertically aligned rotating disk that is coated with abrasive fluid. A skilled craftsman places the case on a hand stand and leans it against the wheels. The aim is to polish the case to a mirror-like sheen and to accentuate the interface between two intersecting planes.
Interestingly, while each metal has its own unique properties, artisans are able to polish steel, gold and platinum using this technique.
The SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki also feature a fine brushed (hairline) finish that contrasts with the adjacent Zaratsu polished case areas, enhancing visual appeal.
CALIBER 9S64 MANUAL WINDING MOVEMENT
Grand Seiko produces a wide range of in-house movements: Quartz, Mechanical (4Hz and 5Hz) and Spring Drive. In addition, the company produces mechanical movements in both automatic and hand-wound forms.
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Both the SBGW293 Tsuji and the SBGW291 Kuuki are equipped with Caliber 9S64 hand-wound movements. Similar to many Swiss movements, the mainplate has a circular graining, while the bridges are decorated with parallel lines, similar to the Côtes de Genève pattern.
Grand Seiko states an "average daily rate" of +5 to -3 seconds per day (evaluated at six locations under 12 days of static conditions). The brand also cites "normal use accuracy" (typical everyday wear) of +10 to -1 second per day. Assuming the mainspring is fully wound, the watch will run on its own for approximately 72 hours.
One of the endearing traits of owning a GS is the brand's incredible attention to detail. For example, the intertooth grooves on the gear train are polished to reduce friction and thus reduce energy consumption.
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The Caliber 9S64 features a Swiss lever escapement with escape wheel and pallet lever, precision molded using MEMS technology, a photolithographic process. These parts are partially hollowed out, which effectively saves weight, which again reduces energy consumption. In addition, the teeth of the escape wheel have small grooves that retain lubricant for longer, reducing friction and wear.
World-class accuracy, legibility and aesthetics
When Grand Seiko was founded, the company established three guiding principles: "world-class accuracy," "legibility," and "aesthetics." GS has released numerous models over the years, all of which meet these criteria time and time again. The company respects tradition and celebrates Japanese culture, but it has also repeatedly shown a willingness to embrace innovation as it brings progress.
Grand Seiko has received numerous awards for excellence in horology. Most notably, the company has had great success at the prestigious GPHG awards. Additionally, many magazines and websites have praised the Japanese brand. In fact, the excellent quality of its products is now known to more and more watch lovers. Based on the evidence, I'm sure the new SBGW293 Tsuji and SBGW291 Kuuki models will continue the brand's coveted reputation.
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technical specifications
Model: Grand Seiko SBGW293 Tsuji (brown dial) / Grand Seiko SBGW291 Kuuki (silver dial)
Case: stainless steel; diameter 36.5mm; height 11.6mm; water resistance 10ATM (100m); sapphire crystal; screw case back.
Functions: hours; minutes; central seconds
Movement: Caliber 9S64; manual winding movement; frequency 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz); 24 jewels; power reserve 72 hours.
Strap: Alligator leather strap, three-fold clasp with push button release